One of the coolest things we did on Vancouver Island (Canada) was visit Hot Spring Cove; A natural hot spring in Maquinna Provincial Park, about 50km northwest of Tofino. There are two ways to visit the area, either via a boat (with a chance of whale sightings) or via a float plane. We were visiting Vancouver Island with friends so although normally we’d go for the cheapest option, we used the excuse of our friend’s visit to spend the extra to pay for a flight.

Once you reach Maquinna Provincial Park you are treated to a short hike through spectacular old growth forest before you reach the cove. The hot springs start with a hot waterfall that drains into a series of bath-like rockpools. Each pool is slightly cooler than the last, until it mixes with the Pacific Ocean and numbs your toes with the cold.

Hot Spring Cove hike – the basics

Distance: 4 km both ways
Cumulative Elevation gain: 60m-ish
Time: 30 mins each way (we recorded just over an hour moving time on strava)
What to bring: The 10 Essentials, plus swimming things and swimming shoes.
Facilities: Campground near the wharf, plus loos and changing rooms next to the hot springs.
Dogs: This one is not for dogs.
How hard is it? Easy. You do need to hike to reach the hot springs but it’s on a well maintained boardwalk for 20-30 mins.

Hot springs Boardwalk Map

Cost to reach the Hot Spring Cove

You cannot reach this part of Vancouver Island without a ride on a boat or a float plane. This makes it an expensive adventure. We went with the flight. It is waaay more than we normally spend for half a day. But I had never flown in such a small airplane, so I LOVED it.

Float Plane: Our flight cost $446.25 each (so $375 + 5%, 8% fuel surcharge, $17 Ahousaht Stewardship Fee and $4 park fee.) We booked via Atleo Air their competitor is Tofino Air.

Water Taxis or Boats: It looks like most of these are from $220-230:
Jamie’s Whaling Station, Long Beach Nature Tours, Tofino Water Taxi, Tofino Whale Centre, West Coast Aquatic Safaris.

Paddle: There is also an option to kayak for 5 days (and 4 nights) camping along the way to reach Hot Spring Cove. You can book via Paddle West Kayaking.

Atleo Air

We mostly chose Atleo Air because they were the first to respond to my enquiries. They had space for us on a flight early in the morning, and they seemed both efficient and friendly. I am glad we went with them as it was SUCH a fab experience to fly with Marcus. It’s also good to know that they are allies of Tofino’s Tla-o-qui-aht First Nation.

You might fly shotgun!

I should probably mention I LOVE flying and being up high. I had never been on a float plane before, and I had been looking forward to this for months. We had not realized when we booked, but there are 6 seats on a DHC-2 Beaver Float Plane. One of these seats is up front, right next to the pilot! When he asked if any of us would like to ride shotgun, I may have broken my face in half from my giant grin. My friends and the other passengers let me go for it – squeeeee!

About the Airplane

Our ride was a DHC-2 Beaver Float Plane. All of these floatplanes were made before 1957, and there are still 1200 left flying (in 2023.) Some of these planes have sunk and been dredged up to get working again – pretty amazing machines, but they have no modern gadgets.

If you are not afraid of heights, the views riding shotgun were soooo good! They are even good from the back seats – Marc took the photo of the Pacific Coastline below. I love the way the forest comes right up to the beaches here in BC. It’s so different to Europe.

Maquinna Provincial Park

Hot Spring cove feels like an island as it is on the end of a peninsular that juts out into the Pacific Ocean in Maquinna Provincial Park. It does join up with the rest of Vancouver Island, but there are no roads, so the only way to reach the hot spring is to hike through the forest.

Hot Spring Cove Boardwalk

Luckily, the trail to the hot spring is well maintained. There is a beautifully built boardwalk the entire way. This is not wheelchair accessible as it has lots of steps, but it is very easy to hike on. Plus you won’t trample on the flowers and tree roots.

Old Growth Giants

The trees along the trail are not just massive, but they are covered in moss and all gnarled and beautiful. We have visited a lot of fabulous trees on Vancouver Island; Cathedral Grove and Meares Island both have gorgeous examples. Still, these are stunning.

In addition to the trees, there are plenty of gorgeous flowers to see along the way. The examples below are dogwood flowers (BC’s provincial flower) and salal flowers that will become berries later in the year.

It is not a long trail along the boardwalk. You’ll know when you are nearly there as you get to a hot, steamy river and then steps down to the hot spring.

What causes the hot spring?

Maquinna Provincial Park sits on a major geological fault that extends north between Mate Islands and this peninsular. Ocean water flows into a fault 5km below sea level and is geothermically heated to at least 109C (according to the sign!) Hydrostatic pressure then forces the water back to the surface and discharges it through the fractured rock at a temperature of about 50C. There is a decent flow rate as the spring pumps out about 5-8 liters of hot mineral water per second.

I have visited plenty of hot springs in Japan, but I have never visited one with a hot waterfall like this! It was a bit too hot for me to shower under the waterfall for more than a couple of seconds. The cove has a series of rockpools. The pools closest to the waterfall are the hottest, and each one is slightly cooler as you get closer to the sea. You can choose the pool temperature that suits you.

The pools closest to the ocean mix with seawater so are lukewarm. Or, you can dip into the Pacific Ocean a bit like a cold plunge pool.

Facilities

Although this is a hot spring, it is not a manicured spa-like experience. This is more of a wonderful wild dip into naturally hot mineral water. Facilities-wise there is a hut with space to leave your bags and a couple changing rooms as well as a toilet. BUT you need to scramble over sharp rocks to reach some of the pools.

Hesquiaht First Nation

The Hesquiaht First Nation is the most northerly member of the 14 nations in the Nuu-chah-nulth Tribal council. They have a campground and a lodge near the docks where you arrive which sounds incredible. 60 years ago, after the largest earthquake ever recorded in North America, a tsunami destroyed most of the village here. They had to relocate to higher ground on the North side of the cove. You can read about that scary experience here. Nowadays the nation focuses on eco-tourism and infrastructure (including the Ah’ta’apq hydro project).

Ahousaht First Nation

The Hot Springs Cove is located on territory claimed by the Ahousaht First Nation, despite also being within the area traditionally associated with the Hesquiaht First Nation. The Ahousaht First Nation, worked with BC Parks through their Maaqutusiis Hahoulthee Stewardship Society (MHSS), to develop a visitor use management plan for Maquinna Marine Provincial Park, which includes Hot Springs Cove. The Stewardship fee goes to them.

Extra tips – Hot Spring Cove

• If possible, aim to arrive early in the morning, or for the last boat/flight when it is least busy. Or camp on the peninsular – and stay for a dip when the sun is setting.
• Your visit will include a $17 Ahousaht Stewardship fee & $4 park fee (per person)
• Bring swimming shoes or at least waterproof sandals.
• There are no shops (at least when we visited in spring) so if you think you’ll get hungry, bring snacks.

As you can see, we visited on a pretty gloomy day, but it was still my favourite experience near Tofino. I loved the flight, the walk, and the dip in the hot springs. Everything about this adventure was brilliant. If you visit Tofino would you be interested in a dip in a natural hot spring?